Non-Sparkling Red Wine From Champagne?
Tasted: sometime in July, 2018, and then again in March, 2019.
As a wine nerd who is naturally drawn to ultra-niche categories, there is only a handful of wine experience as memorable as tasting a purposefully non-sparkling Champagne for the first time, in the summer of 2018.
It was at Reims’ Trésors de Champagne, where a silly decision to taste one of everything available by the glasses got us into a hedonistic situation of indulging in a flight of nine local champagnes, in full serving size. Made from 100% Pinot Noir, the red Côteaux Champenois by Champagne H. Goutorbe stealthy positioned itself as wine number nine, knowing with confidence that I will fall in love at first sight.
Although Champagne as a region produces a range of wine styles, from a legal perspective, only the sparkling stuff can carry the Champagne AOC designation. Still red and whites are labelled as Côteaux Champenois AOC, an appellation that covers the same wine growing area as Champagne AOC. Still rosés exist, too, under Rosé des Riceys AOC (more on this another day).
The Champagne H. Goutorbe Aÿ Rouge Coteaux Champenois expresses a lighter side of Pinot Noir. Exquisite aromas of concentrated wild strawberry, dried cranberry, sumac, and damp earth are met with an intriguing briny, gaminess. Unsurprisingly fresh and mineral driven, the texture is silky, tannins are light and well-integrated, with balanced tertiary notes that lend complexity.
Considering how rare and pricey these wines are in export markets, I am convinced that the opportunity to savour and learn about Côteaux Champenois is a rite of passage to becoming a wine wizard.
Yes, wizards are real, and no one can tell me otherwise.
91/100
