Wine VS Inflation (vol. 1): 1865 from Chile
Let’s hold a bottle of wine in one hand, raise a middle finger in another, and say ‘eff you’ to inflation, shall we?
Inflation sucks. I hear about it in the radio every morning, I feel it in the $25 brick of Comte from the grocery store, and I certainly see it in my bank statements.
Then there came a 1865 Media Dinner that inspired me to (re)learn the charm of great value wines, and this time, my compass points towards Chile.
While we were tasting at dinner, I told Anshu, who sat across from me, that I would easily pay $28 for the nice juicy Cabernet they poured. When I found out that it costs only $19.95, I fell off my chair.
These are the kinds of wine we need right now.
Well-made Chilean wines, especially from respected commercial producers, have a lot to offer from a quality-to-price perspective.
In addition to the price advantage, Chile is also one of the rare viticultural zones where phylloxera has never reached, and vitis vinifera varieties here are still grown entirely on ungrafted rootstock.
A Note on Chilean Luxury
Before we delve into these good-value discoveries, let’s clarify that ultra premium examples from Chile do exist.
The Montes Alpha Purple Angel ($79.95) is one of the iconic examples, but even at this price, we still see tremendous value for its quality.
Lesser known, but a personal favourite, is the Baettig Selección Parcelas ‘Los Primos’ Traiguen Chardonnay ($92). This bottle drinks like a Premier Cru Meursault. To those who are familiar with the average price of a high-quality robust Chardonnay, you would understand that $92 is a steal.
1865 VS Inflation
In the middle of a raging inflation, trading down without sacrificing quality seems like a responsible thing to do.
Viña San Pedro 1865
Under the umbrella of the VSPT family of brands, one of the top 20 global wine producers, 1865 is the second raid of premium wines of Viña San Pedro, which was created in honor of the year of the winery’s foundation, celebrating now more than 150 years of history.
The main characteristic of these wines is the emblematic varieties from different and distinctive wine regions of Chile.
After tasting through the flight of wines, below are three delicious wines that stood out.
1865 Selected Vineyards
Carmenere 2020 (Las Moradas, Maule Valley)
Whenever I saw a bottle of Carmenere, my tongue would retract into my throat. Scarred by the many subpar examples out there, I suppose.
Fortunately, all roads led to this moment, where my mind had changed.
This Carmenere pays respect to its Bordeaux ancestry and the nobleness of the Cabernet family, while also nodding to its unique identity as Chile’s national grape.
Bright with mixed berries, a touch of plum, a kiss of spice, and an air of wild shrubs. Rather restrained in style, no fuss, and incredibly easy to drink.
$19.95 (LCBO#:249201)
1865 Selected Vineyards
Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 (Maipo Valley)
Cabernet Sauvignon is a classic noble red grape and many wine enthusiast’s favourite variety.
In Chile, it is common to find fruity expressions of this grape that are balanced by a subtle oak aromas and a touch of herbaceous notes.
This fresh and juicy wine displays great characters of crunchy black berries, ripe plums, and an explicable air of purity. Oak aromas are subtle and integrated. On the palate, the fruit-forward character continues to shine through, helped by a firm texture and a fresh finish.
$19.95 (LCBO#:37911)
1865 Selected Collection
Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 (Curico Valley)
Two words: dusty tannins.
I immediately understand why Andrea say this wine is her favourite. Compared to the last wine, the grapes here are sourced from a 70-year-old vines, which results in wines with great concentration. Compact blackberry, ripe plums, and a hint of fresh herbs are met with notes of cloves, cedar, and graphite. The palate was broad and full, and I will say it again: dusty tannins. A texture so fine and elegant that it begs you for another sip.
This would my choice of wine when I am entertaining a group of meat-hungry men.
For $35.95, I was floored.
The Winemaker
At dinner, I was fortunate to sit next to Winemaker Andrea Calderon Valquez. A quick Google research after the event had me realized that not only are we born on the same year, our birthdays are only one day apart.
An Agricultural Engineer from the Pontificia Universidad Católica, she began her career in 2014 carrying out harvests abroad in the Sonoma Valley in California and joined Viña San Pedro’s Premium Brand team in 2018.
Andrea arrived in Ontario a few days earlier than her cohort, just so she could rent a car and drive out to Niagara all by herself. A 100% trooper, and we all admire her for it.
